Armoured Art: The Captivating Crossover between Fashion and Armour
By Hannah Mae Webster
Photo by Vik Molina - Thierry Mugler bustier from F/W 95/96 ‘Cirque d’Hiver’ collection.
The term ‘armour’ often conjures up rich imagery of knights, noblemen, and brutal medieval history. Although functional armour can be dated much further back, enhanced, plated armour hit its pinnacle during the 15th and 16th century. The development of highly flexible, decorative designs remains a fascinating topic in which we can identify the clear overlap between fashion and armour.
During the 16th century, armour designs experienced an influx of highly intricate details that began to imitate fashions of the time. Acid-etching, a process that allowed beautiful details to be carved into the armour, was a clear indicator of the weight this attire held as a status symbol. When delving into the concept of acid-etching, it is fascinating to observe the parallels to clothing. Floral designs were carved into the metal to imitate popular embroidery styles, and subtle details such as depictions of bows or ties can be seen on close inspection. This artform was used to heighten the decorative nature of these metal pieces and introduce trends and fashion into a nobleman’s attire.
Furthermore, the shape of the armour followed suit, as desired body standards of the time were reflected in the precise construction of armour sets. Gilding was another method used to enhance the aesthetic value. This process involved the use of mercury and was considered potentially very dangerous, more evidence of the move into functionless developments, slowly forging the bridge between practicality and expression.
As one of the greatest investments a nobleman would make, a suit of armour had every right to be an incredibly striking presentation of one’s place in society, which leads us onto its curiosity-stirring infiltration into the modern fashion scene.
The placement of armour in the high fashion world remains a truly riveting subject (I impressed myself with that pun). We have to ask the question; ‘why is armour such a present theme throughout the decades?’, well let’s discuss.
Many ground-breaking runway shows have featured strong historical influences due to the collective fascination with experiencing another world, whether that be past or future. Reoccurring historical elements can be spotted in collections by designers such as Alexander McQueen and Jean Paul Gaultier. Europe’s eventful past has ignited many a creative endeavour.
The placement of armour in a modern fashion setting creates a striking juxtaposition that blurs the lines of conventionality and time.
Now let’s take a closer look at some of the most astonishing armour-inspired creations of recent years.
Alexander McQueen FW 1998 Ready-to-Wear ‘Joan’
This historically-fuelled transcendent performance featured dramatic chainmail and metallic designs. Moved by the tumultuous journey of Joan of Arc, with references to the fate of the Romanov family, the show paid homage to martyrdom, persecution, and battle. Accompanied by flames, cinders, and disquieting audio, elements of medieval attire included a full-length chainmail gown with a matching draped headpiece, plated armour-clad body parts, and a skullcap. These awe-inspiring metal pieces were created by jewellery designer, Sarah Harmarnee.
Christian Dior SS 1998 Haute Couture
Staged at Paris’s Opera Garnier, John Galliano introduced a deeply theatrical display steeped in history. As ethereal models descended the dramatic staircase, magic engulfed the room. ‘Moving art’ is the only way to describe this masterpiece, with nods to the 1920s, Art Nouveau, the 18th century, and opera culture, the spectacle cemented itself as an inimitable moment in time. Galliano’s opulent collection did in fact feature a beautifully decorative depiction of armour. Inspired by Marchesa Luisa Casati, the Italian heiress known for her extravagant style, the dazzling ensemble included an armoured arm, a chainmailesque gown, and a celestial headpiece. A wonderfully striking homage to another time.
Michiyo Inaba SS 1999
Drenched in riveted body pieces, chainmail, and futuristic notes, this Michiyo Inaba show was inspired by medieval attire and silhouettes, resulting in a fascinating collection. Some of the notable ensembles included faulds, chainmail coifs, and armoured legs.
Alexander McQueen FW 2007 Armour bag
Alexander McQueen’s astonishing 2007 armour bag is truly art. The phenomenal riveted design makes for an unforgettable piece that is reflective of plated suits of armour. This handbag feels like it is equipping its user for battle. The bag was developed in a few varieties, with one of the more detailed versions including a fragmented design on the face. I have to admit, I have coveted this piece for a very long time and it will always be very high on my wish list.
Balenciaga FW 2021 Ready-to-Wear
This futuristic event was executed digitally and developed into an immersive game experience called ‘Afterworld: The Age of Tomorrow’. Models were scanned and imitated game player’s stances and positions. This uncanny presentation featured Balenciaga’s armour boots. The captivating footwear was shown in different versions including heeled boots, flat boots, and the ‘Chevalier Derby’ shoe. Demna Gvasalia’s dystopian vision served as a stark reminder of the digitally evolving world, whilst surrounded by juxtaposing historical elements.
Thierry Mugler FW 1995 Couture
One of Mugler’s most incredible shows, which was also his 20th anniversary celebration, took place at the magnificent Cirque d’Hiver. True to Mugler’s nature, this presentation was an explosion of theatrics and art. Exquisite shapes and materials were paraded across the low-lit runway, with divinely dark headpieces producing the most interesting silhouettes. With every look proving a showstopper, it is difficult to determine a set favourite. Within the extravaganza emerged the jaw-dropping armoured creation. Worn by the radiant Nadja Auermann, the metal, stone covered corset was styled with matching arm armour and a dramatic jewelled necklace. As expected, Thierry Mugler’s anniversary show was a lavish representation of the art of dressing, accompanied by futuristic visions.
After lightly delving into the presence of armour in the modern fashion world, the question of ‘why?’ still remains. Pushing the boundaries of time has always been a focal point for those special designers and artists due to the curiosity surrounding unlived spaces. This concept, along with topics of defiance, rebellion, and gender roles, has created a space for armour. It is interesting to consider the overlap between futuristic ideas and armour-inspired pieces, as the merging of two conflicting times may offer a window into an uncertain future.